You are not adjusting the intonation bu using the tuners, you are tuning the open string to a reference frequency. You need to move the saddle (or thecwhole bridge in some instances) backwards or forwards so that at the 12th fret the first octave of the open note also plays in tune. Various reasons ...

The outputs of the Mk1 were all on RCA connections. Whilst they may have changed the configuration, I expect the Mk2 simply swapped RCA for TS connections. The lower-cost Teac (80-8) and Tascam (38) 8-track recorders of the day had unbalanced inputs on RCAs, so for a relatively basic mixer, there ...

If you want to keep the guitar, then I think you will probably be best either getting new saddles or swapping out the bridge for a different one. the first option is the one that will keep it the most original. Saying that, I've just had a thought. The saddles are identical. So why not try swapping ...

The external power supply will, but not the mixer. That's mainly why it's got the external power supply, as it keeps any transformer hum away from the audio components (provided you don't set the power supply right next to the mixer).

Have you tried fitting a set of 10s? Slightly more downward pressure, and the thicker strings should intonate a bit further back. Take a bit of getting used to, but you should adapt fairly quickly.

Have you ever taken the saddle off and felt how tightly the height screw fits in to the thread in the saddle? Is it loose? Can you wiggle it from side to side or does it feel solid? If solid, I really would try some Loctite on the thread. As the strings are the vibrating part, it's more likely to be ...

It has and it still went wrong.

It's not a different animal at all. Something just isn't right here.

Here's the Graphtech String saver with the offset intonation screw.

Not cheap, but well made and they do help with tuning with trem use.

https://graphtech.com/collections/strin ... ect-finish

Just wondering if someone has put a metric grub screw into an imperial hole and it's made just enough contact to bite in but not enough to have any strength. That may have led to the thread in the saddle being partially stripped, leading to the second collapse. Once maybe, but you've missed the bit ...

This short video gives a good close up of the bridge I believe is on the guitar. https://youtu.be/Dsc2082aXJs?si=Sr4RQvavBTScIBht What I can't make out is if the bridge plate is flat or whether it has grooves in it for the saddle height screws to sit in. Sometimes they have grooves just for the ...

Just realised that it looks like the saddles are ones with the offset intonation screw (non-central). Harder to find replacements for and definitely don't try to fit ones with a central intonation screw as the strings will end up offset by a couple of mm.

But failing two weeks after replacement seems rather excessive corrosion. There may well be a manufacturing error that fails to be addressed. There are plenty of replacement block saddles available if you want to try. I bought a Strat that came with Graphtech String Saver saddles and they were ...

From what I can see, and from the Fender description, the guitar is fitted with a 2-point trem and stainless steel 'block' saddles. If you've fitted any other type of saddle e.g. standard pressed steel ones, then let us know. There shouldn't be anything inherently wrong with this arrangement, so it ...

I think you’d have to differentiate between the high-end systems for installs and big hire companies, and the much lower-end amateur/semi-pro systems.

But I’ve no idea at all about how any of their systems compare with others at any price point.

Here's the mixer details (for the benefit of others).

http://www.speck.com/pdf/misc/Speckmix_16_Brochure.pdf

Looks like they've pulled out of the interface sector (at least for the moment). It's a very competitive market. I've just found on Reddit someone who had asked NI a month ago when it would be back in stock and NI said it had reached its End of Life, so was discontinued Which I find hard to believe ...

Indeed. The adapter sits on top of the PCIe slot and is suitable only for half-height cards. But you could always look for a used Julia@ XTe card, the PCIe version. Or a Maya44 eX. The danger with buying older cards is their longevity and continued driver support. All it takes is one change to the ...

I'll add some vents in the sides to improve airflow but it looks like I'm stuck with the fan. Don’t knock it. It may be the only fan you ever get! :D ;) Be careful when making extra vents. You need to make sure the fan draws air across the transistors and their heatsinks. If you provide an extra l ...

20 x Log10 of the ratio expressed as a decimal

So for 50 percent, 20 x Log10 of 0.5

= 20 x -0.301

= -6dB

30 % = -10dB
(just taking the main dB figure)

No, it’s software. Normally drivers of some sort but sometimes how Windows interacts with the hardware.

I get you, but a new interface is not going to be any better than what I already have. A new interface can certainly get you something better than what you currently have from the technical specs point of view (dynamic range, S/N ratio etc.), but whether the way you use it would show any real-world ...

Hugh Robjohns wrote: ↑Mon Apr 28, 2025 5:56 pm Apologies. We've had a few issues with wonky notifications generally.

It’s not me!

If current Mobos dont have a PCI slot..... I assume that a PCI to "what ever current mobo slot" adapter will either not work or just not be worthwhile? They work, but if you look at them, they only really work for half-height cards where you don't need the metal end piece sitting neatly in it's ...