I might have to play around with the clouds module on my Poly Beebo, now that I'm thinking about it, it could make an interesting bed in parallel to other processing.

As a guide to learning intonation, automotive pinstriping tape can be applied across the fingerboard as a mock fret line. It's thin enough to be relatively accurate and peels off cleanly when no longer needed. It's how I was taught upright bass.

All my boards are pedaltrain boards, with industrial strength velcro. Makes it easy to swap pedals as needed, and the aluminum of the boards makes them lighter than I could make for myself from wood or steel. If I didn't gig them or take them between rehearsal spaces the weight wouldn't have ...

Firstly, congrats on the transition! I've found that rather than color coding lengths, to get non-audio types to help plug in, color coding or labeling cables and jacks for individual connections is about the only way to foolproof it enough to get cooperation. If they can have the one cable labeled ...

My DAW of choice (Mixbus32c) has a saturation knob on each bus, so I tend to dial in some on a per mixbus level as I mix, and then dial in some on the masterbus at the end. I also do the "up until too much then back off" approach. Individual tracks usually don't get any unless I'm looking for it to ...

I'm not much of a guitarist, but I like mine as a pedal platform or for twangy tones with the reverb. If I want true amp distortion I have to look elsewhere or ears begin bleeding I've gigged it a few times, as long as there aren't a bunch of stairs it's no real trouble.

That sounds to me like bad thermal transfer between cpu and cooler, I would remove it, clean both surfaces, reapply thermal paste and try it again. I can't see where a 20% load should have a desktop at or near thermal throttle.

For me the big upside of head+cab vs combo was in upgrading one piece at a time. I started with an old 200w solid state head that weighed a ton, and a very basic 115 cab. 4 or 5 years later added a 210 cab, then a bit later sold the head and bought my current class D. And then the neo 112 popped up ...

Gig-able bass amps IMO start at 300W and go up, unless your talking all tube. I've been super happy with my 500W Markbass head and 112 8 ohm cab. For truly large gigs where I'm not confident in the PA I'll bring a 2nd cab, but the 112 was fine on a 70ft stage outdoors when the PA was good. I've ...

The stock pickups are also ceramic, which also are often described as brittle. Having found details and clips of the Solidac I'm fairly sure that a pickup change could remedy Mudchild's problems, and having clarity on what tone is desired should make selecting new pickups that much easier. It sounds ...

DI's convert instrument signals to mic level, so you want a mic pre to follow. If your source is already line level and you don't need to balance it, and don't want to use up a mic channel, then an aux in would be fine.

Since Apple solder on the ram, there's no option to upgrade later. 32 is a must imo.

I used a curly power cable to allow something to stay plugged in while on a slide out tray, but that's the only one I own

Wonks wrote: ↑Thu Apr 21, 2022 2:35 pm Next project is to finish redoing my 80s Peavey 5-string bass.

I was just about to say, this one was short a string! The dual jazz pickups with 3 way switching should get it fairly close to my USA Reverend, I've found it to be a great set of options on a bass.

I've been using mine for 5 years without it ever loosening, the nylon screw tip seems to do it's job, and being able to add it to a stand without removing the stock counterweight from the end of the arm makes it worthwhile for me. If I was particularly concerned I'd wrap a strip of gaff around it ...

I've got a couple of these, they work fine. Not sure what the availability is on your side of the pond https://www.adorama.com/ostcw3.html

Questions 33 and 34 had left as an option twice and no right. I doubt that's correct

How "undigital" is acceptable? I'm guessing including a traditional computer is right out, but would a micro-controller be okay? A design based on digital logic ICs but entirely hardware? If you want as much discrete circuit as possible, I'd be inclined to have the sound be something in the modular ...

On loading other's saved scenes, I wouldn't rule it out entirely, but would only do it if I knew and trusted the work of whoever made it, that the room/gear/band were the same or quite close, and that I had enough time to look it over before starting to setup/mix that if there were problems ...

Have you tried the VEQ mode? I've not felt the need but if you're unhappy with the default PEQ it's worth a try. Also in terms of being quick to get a satisfactory mix on the M32 I find having presets saved for particular mic/application combinations to be helpful to get to the ballpark quickly. For ...

In a bit more upscale option, Nordstrand make 3 models of noiseless J-pickups, ranging from classic j-bass bright, through darker and meatier, to p-bass in a J-shell. And they are willing to do custom if you like, although I don't know what the cost of that might be!

The only thing I haven't seen mentioned here (or just missed) is putting a plexiglass shield in front of the amp. I've had times (particularly one guitarist who insisted on an aluminum cone Marshall) where the beaming of highs made loud volumes come across even louder, and something to deflect the ...

I'll 2nd the request for a rerun without the tape emulation. A hardware mix through actual tape would be an interesting point for comparison, but that may be a bit much to ask

I'll agree the 2 look similar and I'm familiar with neither, but a quick comparison of listings of the Peavey with the sos review of the Studiomaster shows them to be quite different in features with the Peavey a fair step up. For the same price (actual a touch less) at least here in the states, I'd ...