Micro terror on combo amp

[christiant]

Hello, new to this forum and I think some might help me. I have a orange combo crush 35ldx.I have also a orange micro terror. I would like to use the speaker of the combo for the micro terror amp. My idea would be to fix a 6.35 jack at the back of the combo amp and 2 wires to the speaker then I could just plug-in the micro terror and play. Is this solution the best one and would it harm the combo (shutt off of course) or is it better to ad a switch somewhere? I have some 6.35 Jack's and some 3way switches I have pics but can't add them to the message keep it simple I am no big diy man thanks for the help, simple diagram would be great, Chris

[Wonks]

You really don't want the 20W output of the Micro Terror feeding back into the power amp of the Orange Crush.

You could use two sockets. One connected to the output of the Crush and one wired to the Crush's speaker. Then for normal Crush use, you'd need a jumper speaker lead between the two sockets, and just plug the Micro T into the speaker input.

Or as you say, you could use a switch and a socket, so the switch decides the input into the speaker. But you'd need to make sure the switch was rated to carry the speaker load. I'd suggest a large 5A (minimum) DPDT on/on switch.

Both methods will require some familiarity with a soldering iron.

[christiant]

Soldering is OK I manage if I could upload som pics about how I should/could make it would be great but don't know how!

[Sam Spoons]

Or put a jack socket on the back with the Crush speaker output wired to the switch contacts and the speaker to the socket contacts. Still needs a bit of common sense and some soldering skill though.

[Wonks]

Or put a jack socket on the back with the Crush speaker output wired to the switch contacts and the speaker to the socket contacts. Still needs a bit of common sense and some soldering skill though.

That's what I said!

(And was one of the OP's suggestions).

[Sam Spoons]

Other than having the socket doing the switching

[Wonks]

OK, I now understand what you're getting at, though the OP may not.

[Sam Spoons]

Sorry Wonky, was trying to be brief.

slightly longer explanation just in case, take a mono jack socket with switched contacts i.e. four solder tags. One side will be the contacts that make with the plug and the other will be switch contacts, connected to these when no plug is inserted and disconnected when you plug a plug in.

Plugging a plug in, if wired correctly (it should be fairly obvious), will connect the plug to the speaker but not to the Crush.

[Wonks]

Yes, that should do it. Though one needs to be aware that if the socket isn't used for a long time, especially if left in a damp place, the contacts on the jack can corrode and continuity can be lost. Though it would have to be quite extreme corrosion for it to affect a speaker level signal. It's more common on guitar and line level signals where jack switching is used. But it can happen, so keep it in mind if the sound starts cutting out in the future.

[christiant]

Wonks please tell me how to upload pics or pm

[christiant]

Ok to keep it simple I will solder 2wires from the speaker to a 6.35 female socket that will serve to plug my micro terror on to the speaker. Then I will watch out not to have the crush on when using the terror and the terror on when using the crush... What do you think?

[Sam Spoons]

Not a good idea, the Crush will probably not suffer from being switched on with no speaker connected but, as Wonks said, may not be happy with 20 watts into it's speaker output and the Terror might object to such a load, You need to break the connection between the Crush and the speaker before you connect the Terror to the speaker.

If you can't work out my suggestion then Wonks suggested cutting the speaker lead and connecting it to two sockets, one connected to the speaker and the other to the Crush. Then a connecting lead between them would let you use the Crush as normal and plugging it between the Terror and the speaker lets you use that combination. Just make sure you label them so you never connect the terror to the Crush by mistake.

[Wonks]

Wonks please tell me how to upload pics or pm

The site doesn't host pictures, so you'll need to host them elsewhere and them link to them here. Use the 'img' box in the post menu to get them to display directly.

You don't want to put amp power into another amp.

Follow Sam's advice. Wire from the speaker to the two jack socket tags that are part of the contacts that rise up and make contact with the jack plug when inserted in the socket. Take the wires from the amp snd connect them to the two remaining socket tags.

Note which of the two wires from the amp goes to the positive terminal of the speaker, and make sure that that wire goes to the tip contact of the jack socket on both sides.

[christiant]

To view images follow these links:

https:*?*?*/1MVbFZF
https:*?*?*/7j4JV2w

[Wonks]

You'll need the type of jack socket shown in Sam's picture, not the type of guitar mounting jack socket you've currently got.

Also, you're linking to the web page the image is on, not the image itself, which is why they aren't displaying directly. You can normally right-click on the picture and then chose 'copy image location' and paste that as the link. If it's going to work, you should have .jpg or .png at the end.

[ef37a]

Whilst 20 watts is probably ok, do note that jack switches are not rated for very high currents. Neutrik specc' from 0.25 to 0.5A.

Now, I know we see them used to carry greater currents, in 4x12s e.g. but it is a well know issue that the contacts get hot and "dry" the print in some solid sate amplifiers where they are used as headphone outputs, a problem worsened no doubt by oxidation and crud gathered over the years.

If OP wishes to PM me I am sure I can walk him through the wiring via email.

Dave.

[christiant]

Thanks Dave PMwould be nice. I think that from a simple problem I have managed to make it sound as a complicated mather. How to do PM?

[Wonks]

In a computer web browser, click on the envelope symbol in ef37a's post. If on a tablet or phone browser, click on ef37a's name and you can send a PM from there.

[ef37a]

In a computer web browser, click on the envelope symbol in ef37a's post. If on a tablet or phone browser, click on ef37a's name and you can send a PM from there.

Thanks Wonks, ees' just done it.

Dave.

[Martin Walker]

Also, you're linking to the web page the image is on, not the image itself, which is why they aren't displaying directly. You can normally right-click on the picture and then chose 'copy image location' and paste that as the link. If it's going to work, you should have .jpg or .png at the end.

Spot on Wonks.

Here are the images in question:





Martin

[Hugh Robjohns]

There are well-designed products that do this job safely (from the amps' perspectives!), such as:

http://www.delisleguitar.com/shop/de-lisle-amp-speaker-selector-v1/


https://www.radialeng.com/product/cabbone-ex


https://www.palmer-germany.com/en/products/signal-splitter-switcher/5242/tino-system?c=2129

[ef37a]

Yes Hugh but I think OP still has to break into the speaker feed from the amp, there is no extension jack AFAIK but then I have not found a view of the rear panel.

In any case, we are now in PM communication and I hope to get him sorted soon!

Dave.