Audio plugs jammed into XLR sockets; how to remove?

[Agharta]

I purchased a Tascam DR 100mkII from Amazon Warehouse (where Amazon sells returned items) and it arrived with two plugs in the XLR sockets which appear to be jammed. The XLR inputs have locks on them but pushing the lock tabs down doesn’t allow the plugs to eject.
I’m guessing that the original purchaser screwed up and inserted the wrong types of plugs and has returned it to Amazon without reporting that it had been damaged.
I’ve not used locking XLR connectors before so before I return it to Amazon I’d like to check to see if I’m missing something simple with regard the locking feature.

I’ll post a photo later of the plugs and this is the Tascam recorder:

http://tascam.com/product/dr-100mkii/overview/

[Wonks]

Sometimes it's just a slight mismatch in tolerances. The locking XLR inputs on my MOTU Traveller could be a real pain to get XLRs out from. It was just a question of repeated pulling and wiggling with firm, but not excessive, force. It's generally a problem with the locking pin not fully retracting, maybe due to an over-thick XLR shell. However, my unit is now racked and permanently patched so it's no longer an issue for me.

However, as you have recourse back to Amazon, I wouldn't spend too much time trying to free them and simply return the unit.

[Hugh Robjohns]

The XLR latch is a very simply design. on the body of the plug there is either a small notch or hole, and in the socket is a spring-loaded and chamfered peg on a lever. As the plug is inserted the peg is pushed up and then falls into the notch/hole to capture the plug.

By pressing the release button on the socket, the peg is lifted to disengage it from the plug, allowing the latter to then be pulled out.

As has been said, sometimes the cheaper rip-off copy brands of XLR plug have poor tolerances and so can cause jams like this. Always best to use Neutrik, Cannon or Switchcraft connectors, and avoid the fake Chinese ones at all costs!

If pressing the release tab firmly and applying a strong, steady outward pressure on the plug doesn't work, there's not a lot else you can do. Sometimes wiggling the XLR from side to side or rotationally while keeping the release lever firmly depressed might help to free the latching peg.

It is also sometimes possible to release the catch from inside, but that would mean dismantling the entire machine and you don't want to be doing that when you can return it anyway!

H

[Agharta]

Thanks for the replies. Below are the offending items and I figure I'll grip them with a pliers and give them a wiggle to see if they come out before returning to Amazon.

[Guy Johnson]

Sometimes there is a rubber O-ring that can get sticky, and requires some force and wiggling over a length of time.
Also, the release latch mechanism can break (happened on Ch 12 on my mixer) and it is sometimes possible to insert a thin probe to depress the retaining peg. But two at once seems unlikely!
Those adapters look rather thick, so that may be the problem. I'd try a small mole-wrench to get more outwards grip on the adapters, than just by hand. May be enough to get them out—though don't go mad on the pulling, be very careful and observant.

Maybe a close-up of the latch area would help us… the area in question is in shadow in your pic.

[Agharta]

Maybe a close-up of the latch area would help us… the area in question is in shadow in your pic.

[Agharta]

I tried using a mole wrench with no joy so it is going back to Amazon as faulty. Glad I bought it from a retailer with good tax planning, I mean customer service, as they likely won't accuse me of breaking it.
So be warned if you see one of these on Amazon Warehouse cheap as it might be this one although I will tell them a second time and leave a note in the box explaining that it is faulty and shouldn't be sold again.

It is out of my price range new but at £150 described as being As New it was hard to resist. Impressed overall but maybe it is overkill for my needs which in itself is okay if the price is right but the weight is an issue.

[Kwackman]

I'm not trying to teach granny anything about eggs, but just to be clear.

When you say you are pushing the tabs down, you do mean pushing the tabs towards the box, parallel to the XLR body, not down on to the XLR body?

[Agharta]

Down towards the Tascam box so parallel with the jacks.

[BJG145]

Just be a man about it and yank them properly. Honestly.

[Kwackman]

If there's enough space, see if you can force thin plastic film (shape like a lollypop stick) from something like a plastic milk carton, between the xlr body and the tab. that might force the tab out of the way and then you can try pulling on the xlr.
But, as has been said above, if it's going back to Amazon anyway, maybe best not causing more damage!
God luck with it anyway.

[ef37a]

Find someone with a very well mounted bench vice, pad the jaws with gaffer tape.

This will allow you to both pull on the unit and press down the latch but the latch is not the problem, it is, as others have said, poor shell tolerances.

As Hugh says, avoid cheap XLRs. One such source is Maplin. I have emailed them about the problem but they have shown no intention of helping, did not even offer me a refund or replacement.

I repeat.. Do not buy MAPLINS XLR products!!!

Dave.

[Hugh Robjohns]

I repeat.. Do not buy MAPLINS XLR products!!!

To be fair, Maplin does sell Neutrik XLRs in both singles and male-female packs.

I think, rather than tarnishing the entire company, you really meant to say, 'don't buy the cheap and nasty Maplin XLR products'



H

[Studio Support Gnome]

too late to be of use to the OP i guess but here's an explanation and a solution that works…..

when there's poorly fitted / tight plug in the socket , the cheap ass tabs on the socket release catch, BEND when pressed in the normal manner…. and thus fail to actually slide in and release the plug…. and things get tighter when people try and pull the plugs out…. making it impossible to push in the tabs correctly, and likewise, subsequently impossible to remove the plug ……

the solution is to use a straight implement , (in my case a fret file is my favourite…. ) to allow a gentle tap of a small hammer to press the tab in directly in a straight line, NOT bending the top , but applying the force directly in line , to the vertical portion of the assembly….. then the release catch will slide in, and the Plugs can be removed…. note that it the release catch has to slide in and be HELD in …. not released, for the plug to be removed easily.

[ef37a]

I repeat.. Do not buy MAPLINS XLR products!!!

To be fair, Maplin does sell Neutrik XLRs in both singles and male-female packs.

I think, rather than tarnishing the entire company, you really meant to say, 'don't buy the cheap and nasty Maplin XLR products'



H

No. Having told them I needed gas pliers to get their rubbish out of some 40yr old (and therefore DBang right) cannons I expected them to stop selling the crap. They are after all hardly a RockBottom style operation. They were not of "merchantable quality".

I have had cheap XLRs from CPC that were fine.

Dave.

[Hugh Robjohns]

They were not of "merchantable quality".

Fair enough. I've seen many knock-offs that could and should be described in the same way. And they've all been unusually cheap.. even in uber-expensive Maplins!

I've never had a problem with Maplin's (over-priced) genuine Neutrik plugs, though, on the few occasions when I've had no option but to buy from there.

H

[shufflebeat]

too late to be of use to the OP i guess but here's an explanation and a solution that works…..

when there's poorly fitted / tight plug in the socket , the cheap ass tabs on the socket release catch, BEND when pressed in the normal manner…. and thus fail to actually slide in and release the plug…. and things get tighter when people try and pull the plugs out…. making it impossible to push in the tabs correctly, and likewise, subsequently impossible to remove the plug ……

the solution is to use a straight implement , (in my case a fret file is my favourite…. ) to allow a gentle tap of a small hammer to press the tab in directly in a straight line, NOT bending the top , but applying the force directly in line , to the vertical portion of the assembly….. then the release catch will slide in, and the Plugs can be removed…. note that it the release catch has to slide in and be HELD in …. not released, for the plug to be removed easily.

+1

I've done a similar thing with an old feeler gauge.

[ef37a]

They were not of "merchantable quality".

Fair enough. I've seen many knock-offs that could and should be described in the same way. And they've all been unusually cheap.. even in uber-expensive Maplins!

I've never had a problem with Maplin's (over-priced) genuine Neutrik plugs, though, on the few occasions when I've had no option but to buy from there.

H

Yes, well Maplins is very handy for me, 5 mins down the frog in a car. I have had other issues with their products that they do not seem willing to address. Quite decent RCA plugs with a gold spring cable relief but they fail to include the insulator for the hot pin thus the coil can fall in and short! Told'em. Couldn't give a ***t.
Several times I have found just what I want, today! Then found it is "web only"! If I wanted to wait 3 days I could get it cheaper from Amazon! And speaking of 'Zon, if I buy cheap connectors from them*and they have issues, caveat emptor but a big town store I expect to stock stuff that at least fits!

*Don't send son in France Neutriks. He gets thru cables like you lot get through Hob-Nobs!

Dave.

[shufflebeat]

Mmm... Neutriks!

The Maplin catalogue is a fine publication - see what's new and clever, check the cost, multiply by 0.75, then go on Amazon or eBay to buy at a realistic price.

A noble public service, and they sell emergency cable at an emergency price - perfect.

[Kwackman]

check the cost, multiply by 0.75, then go on Amazon or eBay to buy at a realistic price.

Unless it was a reputable seller, I'd be very careful about buying "branded" stuff on eBay.

[Folderol]

It's wrong to say Maplins is a pale shadow of it's former self...
It is actually a pale shadow of it's former shadow

[dmills]

I tend to think more in terms of a pale shadow of Tandys former shadow.....
Awful places.

Regards, Dan.

[shufflebeat]

check the cost, multiply by 0.75, then go on Amazon or eBay to buy at a realistic price.

Unless it was a reputable seller, I'd be very careful about buying "branded" stuff on eBay.

+1, I tend to stick with the same sellers.

[forumuser915213]

I've hit this problem with cheap cables and a Tascam in recent months.

I first got them out by unscrewing the connector guts, and using a pair of pliers and pressing down the lock button, I managed to wiggle and pull until the shell came out.

I have now successfully used a Dremel to grind down the lips in the male connectors so that they're much easier to remove. And yes - I've carefully labelled the modified cables!

Gavin