malhomme wrote:I'd like to sort of jump on the thread to ask for a little enlighment.
I mean, I am into the process of constructing my studio out of an old (small) staple (staples ?).
Anyway.
These DIY stuff are exactly what I need nad I try to find as much as I can to help design my future "homeplace" as I'd like it to be.
Although there tons of question, I'd like to know two things
1) How choose the fabric to cover the whole trap ? These explanations don't tell that much Sometimes it is said that it must be acoustically neutral. How can one know ?
1) if you can easily breathe through it when stretched tight across your mouth... it's a fair bet.... the most commonly used in the UK and Europe is probably Interface fabrics "Cara".
Max
I was thinking of burlap (sack cloth).... broad fibres and cheap as chips, literally... it's used for potato sacks. Doesn't a coat of dilute PVA affect the frequency absorption?
Cara is slightly stretchy which makes it much easier to do a neat job covering the panels. It is more expensive but I'm glad I didn't try to do it on the cheap as the finished job looks great.
Elephone wrote:Doesn't a coat of dilute PVA affect the frequency absorption?
It is a dilute mist coat, just enough to hold the external fibres in place, whilst not enough to close up any pores in the material.
I might just do that for now then until I get some fabric offered. The fabric to cover them will cost far more than the nine 120 x 60 panels, and I need to buy plasterboard to block a door. Fabric seems to cost more than when people made it by hand.
Maybe net curtain material.
Last edited by Elephone on Thu Nov 15, 2018 4:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
We've used black plastic weed-surpression material for a couple of Studio SOS jobs. It's a bit utilitarian, but dirt cheap (see what I did there?) , readily available in local garden stores, easy to use, and with enough stretch to make a tidy job.
Technical Editor, Sound On Sound...
(But generally posting my own personal views and not necessarily those of SOS, the company or the magazine!)
In my world, things get less strange when I read the manual...
Thanks! Does some rockwool come in hard lightweight foam slabs? I saw some on a skip and wondered if that's rockwool or some other heating insulation material.
Last edited by Elephone on Fri Nov 16, 2018 3:16 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Elephone wrote:Does some rockwool come in hard lightweight foam slabs? I saw some on a skip and wondered if that's rockwool or some other heating insulation material.
No. Rockwool looks more like Weetabix! It's a fibrous material. What you're describing sounds like a closed-cell foam slab used for heat insulation in cavity walls... which is of no use acoustically.
Technical Editor, Sound On Sound...
(But generally posting my own personal views and not necessarily those of SOS, the company or the magazine!)
In my world, things get less strange when I read the manual...
I used dust sheets on the back if my panels and it works pretty well. As James says it doesn't look as nice as Cara though and it is not quite as easy to use for some reason.
Sam Spoons wrote:I used dust sheets on the back if my panels and it works pretty well. As James says it doesn't look as nice as Cara though and it is not quite as easy to use for some reason.
I presume you mean cotton fibre dust sheets? But there's cotton twill, cotton calico, cotton canvas, laminated cotton, rayon, and Bolton twill.
I used the cotton twill dust sheets as that's what they sold in Screwfix. Nowadays I'd go to Toolstation who are usually cheaper for most things (their dust sheets are roughly the same price as that Ebay listing which is £3 cheaper than Screwfix).
Sam Spoons wrote:I used dust sheets on the back if my panels and it works pretty well. As James says it doesn't look as nice as Cara though and it is not quite as easy to use for some reason.
I presume you mean cotton fibre dust sheets? But there's cotton twill, cotton calico, cotton canvas, laminated cotton, rayon, and Bolton twill.
Thanks. I do think nylon tights might be a good underlay as an extra precaution to prevent fibres straying (as well PVA spray), especially if the panels are in your living space, above a couch or bed.
Incidentally, to apply the PVA, should I water it down to about 1 part PVA to 5 parts water and put it in a spray bottle?
Thanks
Last edited by Elephone on Mon Nov 19, 2018 4:14 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Sorry to be totally useless... but does it have to be PVA glue to bond the fibres? I don't want to balls it up by getting the wrong consistency. Won't an aerosol carpet spray glue do the trick? Otherwise, how do I mix PVA with water? Does it need meths or alcohol to be added?
PVA is water based, just dilute with water. The dilution will depend on which PVA you buy, the correct ratio is usually on the container (it’s not super critical though).
Sam Spoons wrote:PVA is water based, just dilute with water. The dilution will depend on which PVA you buy, the correct ratio is usually on the container (it’s not super critical though).
Just wondering... in hindsight... wouldn't hairspray have been better than diluted PVA to bind the stray fibres?
Last edited by Elephone on Tue Jan 22, 2019 2:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Sam Spoons wrote:PVA is water based, just dilute with water. The dilution will depend on which PVA you buy, the correct ratio is usually on the container (it’s not super critical though).
Just wondering... in hindsight... wouldn't hairspray have been better than diluted PVA to bind the stray fibres?
I hope you jest Elephone - can't think of a more flammable solution
Apparently dried hairspray residue is more flammable than human hair, but, reading between the lines, not much........ The propellent is, undoubtedly, pretty dodgy stuff in the presence of a naked flame (being as how it is alcohol.....).
