Build project - resonator guitar from recycled bits

[adrian_k]

Keep going Adrian, you're almost there!

Thanks!!

[Wonks]

The tuner strip reminded me that I was going to comment on how little tuner strips have changed over the years.

Last weekend I picked up a late 30s/early 40s regal parlour guitar for £100. Can't see any serial number on it so there's no no hope of an accurate date. Whilst the original machine heads work, two of the tuner buttons are very bent and there's so much play in the gears that getting it in tune and staying in tune was never going to be easy. So whilst I'll keep the original tuners safe, I went and bought a set of Kluson strip tuners.

These have exactly the same post centres, fixing screw locations and an almost identical mounting plate size and shape to the originals. And I expect the original strips were available from at least the 1920s (or before). So you can buy tuners today that will fit guitars made 100 years ago. And Gibson still use this strip size on their LP Jr and Specials.





The tuner post holes should have pressed steel ferrules, which have obviously fallen out over time, so I've ordered some more of those. They don't have any splines, so really need a dab of glue to keep them in place. The Klusons came with bushings, but they were of a wider, more modern design, so won't be fitted.

The guitar itself has many partially loose battens, so I'm in the process of gluing them back before stringing it up.

[Drew Stephenson]

That's it for this year. Sprayed another coat and have brought it home for cutting back with 400 grit (going very gingerly over the logo) and yet more (minor) drop filling.

That's the end of my spraying - my technique isn't good enough yet and the final three or four coats need to be put on nice and even, no runs, so I'm asking Col to do it for me next visit in return for beer and curry.

Good work Adrian, looking forward to seeing more progress in the new year.

[adrian_k]

Still plodding on...

January visit saw three more coats of lacquer, first two cut back with 600 wet & dry, then I brought it home to cut back with 800 wet & dry. Here it is with the seventh coat of lacquer. It's looking quite good now I think... it's great how even a nondescript piece of wood once you've put some elbow grease into it will show some nice texture and grain. Subtle in this case I'll grant you though..

[adrian_k]

And then we cut that finish off so that we can start again! It's a slightly frustrating process cutting back wet as you can't see where you've been..



Ready for next spraying:



@Wonks - how is the Regal coming on?

[Wonks]

The Regal is waiting on me building some spool clamps as I'm planning on removing the back to glue the bracing back on properly and feeling well/bright enough to do so. Got all the bits for the clamps, just need time (and weather that's decent enough to work outside) to cut the circular bits of wood out. Been working on Arkieboy's guitars the past couple of weeks, so I keep putting it off.

[Wonks]

The resonator is looking good.

[zenguitar]

Nice work

And a handy reminder that finishing takes a lot more time and effort than people think.

Andy

[Sam Spoons]

You could say "it ain't finished 'till it's 'Finished'..."

[adrian_k]

True, but I think I can hear the large lady warming up....

[Folderol]

You've way more patience than I have! The finish already looks as smooth as glass

[adrian_k]

Although.... if you run your finger over a glass surface it drags slightly. Most modern guitars feel like that to me - despite being glossy they can feel almost sticky.

I’m going for a different kind of smooth, more like silk. That’s the plan anyway!

[Sam Spoons]

Before satin was fashionable I used Mr Sheen to achieve the same end

[Drew Stephenson]

A nice satin finish is a fine thing, if a bit more tricky to do really well. Looking good Adrian.

[adrian_k]

I haven't posted much as it's a bit boring: spray, sand, spray, sand etc..

The February visit to the workshop saw another couple of coats of finish, first one cut back with 800 wet, second one I brought home and cut back with 1000 wet and polished up with T-Cut. At this stage you have a make a call, can you live with the imperfections that remain or are you going to call it a day and let it go? I decided to call it a day. Someone is only going to knock it off it's stand at some point anyway....

So first thing this visit was to do a final polish with fine surface compound. Here's the result:



I'm quite pleased - the surface is glossy but in a warm sort of organic way, very smooth to the touch.

[Martin Walker]

Wow - it's jaw hits the ground time Adrian!

That finish looks stunning, and it's truly a labour of love

Martin

[zenguitar]

Shiny.



Andy

[Wonks]

Yeah, half-arsed job.

Looks good.

[adrian_k]

Next, I took off the masking tape from the fingerboard. I'd forgotten what a mess it looked - superglue from filling the bits torn out when I refretted, unfinished frets, and screw heads showing where the board goes over the body.

So I first lightly rubbed down each edge of the fingerboard with 1000 grit on a block at angle to help remove any finish that has seeped under the masking tape and on the fret ends. If you do this before cleaning the top of the board it reduces the risk of finish chipping off.

Then using a triangular file I cleaned off all the excess superglue, checked and re-filled any remaining divots and cleaned up any mess I'd made doing that.

Next I polished the frets using 600 grit paper wrapped tightly round a crowning file (can go finer but 600 is good enough). Lastly I scraped the fingerboard with a small cabinet scraper.

[adrian_k]

Yeah, half-arsed job.

Looks good.

Getting there..

[adrian_k]

Then there were the screw holes in the fingerboard. This is where access to workshop tools makes life easier.

Using a plug cutter I drilled four 6mm plugs out of a rosewood offcut. These are then snapped out, superglued in, chiselled off, then filed and scraped smooth and level. Simple!

[Wonks]

Those plugs look neat.

Only up to 600 grit on frets is a half-arsed job in my book. Though the most important bit is the coarser grits, and getting rid of any cross-fret scratches that stop the strings sliding across the frets smoothly and make the neck feel 'gritty'.

[Folderol]

Talk about a labour of love! It does look really good though

[Drew Stephenson]

Good work, will the frets be getting a final steel wool polish?

[adrian_k]

Good work, will the frets be getting a final steel wool polish?

Nope - they are good enough. Smooth enough not to play without nasty noises bearing in mind this will be set up for slide. If it was a an electric it would be different..

{edit} Even then I find 600 is usually enough. As Wonks says the coarser grades do the work in removing any nasty scratches, it’s then just how shiny you like your frets to look.