Komplete 6 unit USB socket dead - How to replace

[Marbury]

I have had the Native Instruments Komplete Audio 6 unit for a few years but from day 1 the usb has always been dodgy. Very wobbly and intermittent crackling every so often which got worse as the years progressed. Its never been manhandled or taken out the studio so the build is very poor considering. Now it has Kompletely died and no power. Swapped cables, re-booted pc etc and nothing. Wiggled the usb in the socket which crashed the pc and caused the psu plugs fuse to die. Not good,.

Basically, can anyone advise where to get a replacement usb socket and if easy to fit as I am a novice with the soldering iron ?

[James Perrett]

It is more likely that the existing socket was never soldered properly so I'd suggest heating up the connection to each pin on the connector and allowing the solder to flow. You'll need a soldering iron designed for lead free solder to work on something this recent.

[ef37a]

It is more likely that the existing socket was never soldered properly so I'd suggest heating up the connection to each pin on the connector and allowing the solder to flow. You'll need a soldering iron designed for lead free solder to work on something this recent.

I wouldn't James. WTGR if the OP has beginner soldering skills, the USB PCB of a £160 interface is not the place to start!

Best bet is to first ask the reatiler it came from. Maybe (ho! ho! ho! They have a service dept, The 'hos' were not Christmas related)
If, as I suspect, they wash their hands try Native Instruments, could be a UK service agent? Last hope is a local man. Anyone who purports to be able to fix TVs and phones should be capable, even if he has never seen an AI before. Wish I was still in the business, love to help.

As for the KA6 being of "poor build quality"? No sir! Mine is the proverbial BSH and the 'B' port a much tighter 'grab' than any other AI I have known including an 8I6. You got a bad one (why did you accept it?) 't'appen.

Dave.

[Marbury]

It is more likely that the existing socket was never soldered properly so I'd suggest heating up the connection to each pin on the connector and allowing the solder to flow. You'll need a soldering iron designed for lead free solder to work on something this recent.

Thanks James, I was wondering why my old soldering iron wasn't working on removing another usb component for transplanting. Having said that, I will try what you say and re-solder to see if it works thanks.

[Marbury]

It is more likely that the existing socket was never soldered properly so I'd suggest heating up the connection to each pin on the connector and allowing the solder to flow. You'll need a soldering iron designed for lead free solder to work on something this recent.

I wouldn't James. WTGR if the OP has beginner soldering skills, the USB PCB of a £160 interface is not the place to start!

Best bet is to first ask the reatiler it came from. Maybe (ho! ho! ho! They have a service dept, The 'hos' were not Christmas related)
If, as I suspect, they wash their hands try Native Instruments, could be a UK service agent? Last hope is a local man. Anyone who purports to be able to fix TVs and phones should be capable, even if he has never seen an AI before. Wish I was still in the business, love to help.
Dave.

Well I purchased it from Dawsons a few years ago from a branch now gone. Its well out of warranty and NI are about as much use as Alesis with their customer service. To be fair this problem has got worse over time and its VERY common with many people. Just Google it.

As for taking it apart, I watched a Youtube video and its built like Fort Knox. Unbelievably difficult to take apart and then reassemble.

[ef37a]

It is more likely that the existing socket was never soldered properly so I'd suggest heating up the connection to each pin on the connector and allowing the solder to flow. You'll need a soldering iron designed for lead free solder to work on something this recent.

I wouldn't James. WTGR if the OP has beginner soldering skills, the USB PCB of a £160 interface is not the place to start!

Best bet is to first ask the reatiler it came from. Maybe (ho! ho! ho! They have a service dept, The 'hos' were not Christmas related)
If, as I suspect, they wash their hands try Native Instruments, could be a UK service agent? Last hope is a local man. Anyone who purports to be able to fix TVs and phones should be capable, even if he has never seen an AI before. Wish I was still in the business, love to help.
Dave.

Well I purchased it from Dawsons a few years ago from a branch now gone. Its well out of warranty and NI are about as much use as Alesis with their customer service. To be fair this problem has got worse over time and its VERY common with many people. Just Google it.

As for taking it apart, I watched a Youtube video and its built like Fort Knox. Unbelievably difficult to take apart and then reassemble.

Hmm, very surprised to hear about a problem with the USB port. As I say, mine is a solid as a rock and I know of at least two other users on forums. I have also been touting the fine qualities of the KA6 on forums for many years, not had one single "Ah but! The usb ports are dodgy"
In fact negative reports of any kind are extremely rare, way fewer than say Focusrites though I will admit they probably outsell all other AIs combined in the sub $200 market.

Good luck any way with the slobbering. It is usually best to remove as much old solder as you can with wick (do not like crash-bang suckers) then flow in new. Then put a glass on it and check for shorts or whiskers before power up.

Dave.

[Marbury]

It is more likely that the existing socket was never soldered properly so I'd suggest heating up the connection to each pin on the connector and allowing the solder to flow. You'll need a soldering iron designed for lead free solder to work on something this recent.

I wouldn't James. WTGR if the OP has beginner soldering skills, the USB PCB of a £160 interface is not the place to start!

Best bet is to first ask the reatiler it came from. Maybe (ho! ho! ho! They have a service dept, The 'hos' were not Christmas related)
If, as I suspect, they wash their hands try Native Instruments, could be a UK service agent? Last hope is a local man. Anyone who purports to be able to fix TVs and phones should be capable, even if he has never seen an AI before. Wish I was still in the business, love to help.
Dave.

Well I purchased it from Dawsons a few years ago from a branch now gone. Its well out of warranty and NI are about as much use as Alesis with their customer service. To be fair this problem has got worse over time and its VERY common with many people. Just Google it.

As for taking it apart, I watched a Youtube video and its built like Fort Knox. Unbelievably difficult to take apart and then reassemble.

Hmm, very surprised to hear about a problem with the USB port. As I say, mine is a solid as a rock and I know of at least two other users on forums. I have also been touting the fine qualities of the KA6 on forums for many years, not had one single "Ah but! The usb ports are dodgy"
In fact negative reports of any kind are extremely rare, way fewer than say Focusrites though I will admit they probably outsell all other AIs combined in the sub $200 market.

Good luck any way with the slobbering. It is usually best to remove as much old solder as you can with wick (do not like crash-bang suckers) then flow in new. Then put a glass on it and check for shorts or whiskers before power up.

Dave.

Thanks for your suggestions. I have had no end of problems with the K6 over the years, randomly throwing out my audio settings in my DAW, failing to engage when booting up PC if not left a few seconds before powering up (resulting in green light flashing causing me to have to unplug the USB and in again to get it to see the K6 and intermittent crackling and popping (again having to unplug and re-insert the usb.

Having said that, as a novice, I don't quite follow some of your instructions: "Crash bang suckers" "put a glass on it" and "check for shorts and whiskers" ?

My old soldering iron and wick will not remove a donor usb from another scrap circuit board despite the iron being up to temp. For the life of me it does not melt the solder. If you could advise on the type of iron (and solder) I need I would be grateful. Also flux ?

As it was a tax deductible business item when I purchased it, I could have it mended and again, as a business expense but I can't really be without it for long as I need to be able to produce work. I could opt for buying a newer model (or other brand) but I hate to waste gear if only the usb being the issue. I am genuinely in a conundrum about it as its not been a great year for me (personally speaking) and this is almost a straw that could break the camel's back if I let it get to me. The thought of getting the unit open fills me with dread if you watch this video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PglvI2CbGvQ&t=1711s

[Wonks]

They use a slightly different language on Dave's planet.

Crash-bang sucker - a solder sucker.

Glass - magnifying glass

Shorts and whiskers - any obvious solder short circuits between pins or PCB tracks that shouldn't be there and any stray strands of wire or solder that are bridging tracks on the PCB.

[Marbury]

They use a slightly different language on Dave's planet.

Crash-bang sucker - a solder sucker.

Glass - magnifying glass

Shorts and whiskers - any obvious solder short circuits between pins or PCB tracks that shouldn't be there and any stray strands of wire or solder that are bridging tracks on the PCB.

Ok, cheers. Might have to invest in a decent soldering kit from Amazon. Not too bad as they are not that expensive.

[Wonks]

No, they aren't. Just be aware that the soldering iron kits that you get from Amazon in the £15-£20 range have terrible stands that need to be screwed down to a larger piece of wood to be stable, as they simply aren't big or heavy enough to be stable on their own. I bought one just for use on lead-free connections, and its temperature control facility isn't bad at all. But don't leave it at the default full-on temp, that will be too hot and is likely to damage the PCB tracks.

The solder used on the NI unit will be lead-free, which melts at a higher temperature than older 60/40 lead solder. The solders aren't compatible, so you'll need some lead-free solder to solder on a new socket.

Lead-free melts at around 217°C (leaded is around 183°C), and you need the iron to be a bit hotter than that to melt the solder fairly quickly, so somewhere in the 240°C-250°C region.

[Pete Kaine]

Ok, cheers. Might have to invest in a decent soldering kit from Amazon. Not too bad as they are not that expensive.

I used to think this until the point where my friendly local neighbourhood soldering geek showed me the price of what he considered to be a decent soldering kit...

Still, the Cheaper Amazon ones should still get the job done.

[ef37a]

Ok, cheers. Might have to invest in a decent soldering kit from Amazon. Not too bad as they are not that expensive.

I used to think this until the point where my friendly local neighbourhood soldering geek showed me the price of what he considered to be a decent soldering kit...

Still, the Cheaper Amazon ones should still get the job done.

'Hakko' mahap Pete? Used one, superb. There is a solder station at CPC Farnell 'DuraTool' I think. Had the Maplin version fo years, pretty good for around £45.

Sorry about the terminolgy botheration! I would suggest ALL you issues with the KA6 stem from a dodgy USB port or there is an issue with the PC?

Hate to say it but if you just need a 2 in 2 out AI pro tem, get a Behringer UMC thang. No 'pro' should be without a backup.

Dave.

[Marbury]

Ok, cheers. Might have to invest in a decent soldering kit from Amazon. Not too bad as they are not that expensive.

I used to think this until the point where my friendly local neighbourhood soldering geek showed me the price of what he considered to be a decent soldering kit...

Still, the Cheaper Amazon ones should still get the job done.

I think you should remember Pete when you had my PC built, the trouble you had with the K6 not handshaking when booting up. You fixed the issue only for me to say when I had got it home that it was doing it again. The only way of getting it to engage at boot up is to wait about 10 seconds before pressing the power button. Any less or longer and it flashes as not engaged. Its always been trouble.

Anyway, this seems a good kit

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07F2XNTWV/ ... ljaz10cnVl

[Folderol]

There simply must have been something wrong with the KA6 internally from the start. My one has not given the slightest sign of problems, and I've had it for years, and taken it half way round Europe for various events, as well as using it at home, and all day sessions at the last 3 SynthFest events.

[ef37a]

There simply must have been something wrong with the KA6 internally from the start. My one has not given the slightest sign of problems, and I've had it for years, and taken it half way round Europe for various events, as well as using it at home, and all day sessions at the last 3 SynthFest events.

Mine has not travelled (except to Will and back) but it has been used on many PC platforms: XP, 2000, W7 even Blista and always booted straight up no bother . I know of at least two working on macs and Will runs one in Linux. In the time I have had it mine has been installed on at least 5 laptops and towers.

I refuse to believe such a versatile and solid device has the operational bad history you suggest.

Dave.

[ef37a]

There simply must have been something wrong with the KA6 internally from the start. My one has not given the slightest sign of problems, and I've had it for years, and taken it half way round Europe for various events, as well as using it at home, and all day sessions at the last 3 SynthFest events.

Mine has not travelled (except to Will and back) but it has been used on many PC platforms: XP, 2000, W7 even Blista and always booted straight up no bother . I know of at least two working on macs and Will runs one in Linux. In the time I have had it mine has been installed on at least 5 laptops and towers.

I refuse to believe such a versatile and solid device has the operational bad history you suggest.

Ooops! How did I do that?

Dave.

[Marbury]

There simply must
I refuse to believe such a versatile and solid device has the operational bad history you suggest.

Ooops! How did I do that?

Dave.

Well thats your purgative but why wold I make up this stuff ? Just because your model is solid does not mean it cant go wrong for someone else. Pete had trouble getting it to run on my pc.

[ef37a]

There simply must
I refuse to believe such a versatile and solid device has the operational bad history you suggest.

Ooops! How did I do that?

Dave.

Well thats your purgative but why wold I make up this stuff ? Just because your model is solid does not mean it cant go wrong for someone else. Pete had trouble getting it to run on my pc.

Woah! We are not having a pop at you mate nor doubting your veracity. We accept you have a problem but it is with YOUR sample of the KA6. I accept that you have found other accounts of problems with the interface but if you put "problems with 'XYZ' interface" into Google you will get masses of hits. All Will and I are saying is that our samples are rock solid and I for one have not seen any unsolicited problems with the KA6 on the net.

Cannot say that for Focusrite AIs, there is a thread about one in this very forum but the fact is, sell enough 'stuff' and you will get the odd lemon. ESPECIALLY stuff you connect to a computer!

Dave.

[Marbury]

Fair enough but we are talking as much physical hardware issues as well as software. Ie, very spongy usb hole.

[James Perrett]

Fair enough but we are talking as much physical hardware issues as well as software. Ie, very spongy usb hole.

I think we are saying that all your problems could have been down to a USB connector that was never soldered in properly in the first place. These sort of problems can be very tricky to track down at first as the connection may be pretty good and only stop working occasionally but as you use the socket more and more the connection becomes worse and the interface becomes less reliable. It can also be very difficult to actually see the problem unless you look at it under a microscope.

If it is one of the power pins that has come adrift the resistance may have increased which will cause the power supply voltage to sag whenever the device demands a high current - typically when it starts up. This will cause all kinds of strange behaviour.

[ef37a]

I had much the same problem James with an Evolution MIDI keyboard controller.

Fine for a couple of years then Cubase Ess'6 started throwing wobblies*. Eventually saw that the kbd LED flickered. Soldered up the USB port and the MIDI DIN while I was in there.

Just ordered one of those kits. Thanks Mr M! Might be a load of old tat but at that price I am willing to take a chance. Will probably give it to son when he rocks up in January.

*Also had pitch problem. This turned out to be a noisy pitch bend pot and cleaing it only effected repair for a few months. Fortunately son never used the control so we just turned off pitch bend in the Cubase filters.

Dave.

[Wonks]

I've got the same basic iron (to supplement my Maplin temp controlled soldering station) that came with a smaller kit, and it works just fine. Some of the other kit components are a bit lightweight, but they will work for a while and are fine if you only solder occasionally.

[ef37a]

I've got the same basic iron (to supplement my Maplin temp controlled soldering station) that came with a smaller kit, and it works just fine. Some of the other kit components are a bit lightweight, but they will work for a while and are fine if you only solder occasionally.

Cheers Wonks, that should suit son fine. He is a very reluctant solderer!

Dave.

[Pete Kaine]

'Hakko' mahap Pete? Used one, superb.

Hahah, yes, that's the brand. He swore by it all day long, although he does enough repair work to justify the investment.

I think you should remember Pete when you had my PC built, the trouble you had with the K6 not handshaking when booting up.

Vaguely, possibly, it was a good few years ago through. Were you not on a board with the first gen USB 3 implimenation and we tried a load of firmware/driver updates or am I thinking of another one? There were handshaking issues on the early implimentations, forceing windows to do a driver reload (via a port swap or forced on/off would have worked) which wasn't uncommon for a few interfaces at one time and was slowly fixed via firmware/driver updates. The suggestion of a deteriating USB port would make sense in retrospect, but it's not something that I would have started with unless it was obviously loose when I saw it.

[The Elf]

I'll simply add my voice saying my KA6 has been most grievously abused in its short life, yet everything is solid and it works 100% reliably. From what you say I would similarly suspect that yours has been dodgy from day 1.