Steinberg UR22C

[jukinjoey]

Hey guys. So last week I got a new Steinberg UR22C. Unplugged it from my laptop and plugged it in again and nothing. Seems the fuse has burnt... Got a new one and before I do this again. What should I watch out for? Was it because my 48v switch was turned on or my NT1-A Rode mic was plugged in? Thanks. I'm a total newbi to music gear.

[ef37a]

Hey guys. So last week I got a new Steinberg UR22C. Unplugged it from my laptop and plugged it in again and nothing. Seems the fuse has burnt... Got a new one and before I do this again. What should I watch out for? Was it because my 48v switch was turned on or my NT1-A Rode mic was plugged in? Thanks. I'm a total newbi to music gear.

You have done nothing wrong, just been incredibly unlucky. Over the last 15 years or so I must have plugged USB AI's in and out of a good 1/2 doz computers, desk and laptop thousands of times and in that time some 6-8 different interfaces have gone through my hands. Never had such a problem.

The reviewy guys here must have done that several times over and I cannot recall a report of a sample not working?

Assuming you don't have trouble with other USB devices e.g. thumb drives, your phone? Just plug and play! And 48V, on or off matters not a jot.

Dave.

[CS70]

Hey guys. So last week I got a new Steinberg UR22C. Unplugged it from my laptop and plugged it in again and nothing. Seems the fuse has burnt... Got a new one and before I do this again. What should I watch out for? Was it because my 48v switch was turned on or my NT1-A Rode mic was plugged in? Thanks. I'm a total newbi to music gear.

+1 to what Dave says. Plugging and unplugging from the USB port (or even the mains) really should have no effects, regardless of 48V on or not. Most likely something broke around the same time and it's easy to assume there's a cause/effect relationship where there's none. Half of humanity history was made like that...

[James Perrett]

It is only a week old so this is a typical problem often seen where a brand new component works for long enough to pass the factory test but dies soon after. That's one of the reasons manufacturers have to offer guarantees. Early failures are very common - especially on switch on or switch off which cause the biggest stress on components. If you are interested in the science, look up the Bathtub Curve -

https://www.weibull.com/hotwire/issue21/hottopics21.htm

is just one example.

Just take the UR22 back and ask for another one.

[jukinjoey]

Thank you very much guys. I have contacted the store and they are going to take it back. Thanks for your time. Keep on rockin!

[JRC1]

Also just make sure you arent putting too much on your wall socket, don't have an extension in to an extension on a three way wall plug.

[ef37a]

Also just make sure you arent putting too much on your wall socket, don't have an extension in to an extension on a three way wall plug.

? So long as the extension going into the 13A outlet is fused at 13A you can string as many more as you like.

I have been told about this before, by an electrician, no 'extension to extension' but he could not give me a reason and I cannot think of one?

Maybe people are getting confused with 2 and 3 way 13A adaptors? The early ones were not fused? In fact even that should have just taken out a breaker or fuse in the CU if peeps put a kettle, a toaster and a fan heater in one. In practice a slight overload actually led to the live pin overheating and that characteristic fishy smell. Likely caused a few fires.

Dave.

[Sam Spoons]

Surely, as long as the adapter, whatever type it is, is fused it would be fine. Very old none fused three way adapters could be problematical I guess but anything modern should be able to handle 13A without any ill affects.

Either way a home studio rig is unlikely to get anywhere near 13A in the UK*, my live PA rig (3kw FOH plus 3-4kw monitors), backline and a few LED PAR cans only draws a few amps (measured at around 2A max for the main PA alone and, in theory, less than 6A for everything, including a couple of power hungry bass and guitar amps).

* Okay, a 2" 24 track with a 40 channel analogue desk with huge soffit mounted monitors and a couple of racks of outboard maybe...

[CS70]

Also just make sure you arent putting too much on your wall socket, don't have an extension in to an extension on a three way wall plug.

Insofar i know, shouldn't be a problem at all unless one attaches a bunch of electrical heaters (and has enough juice in the room' subnet to power them)... in which case thin wire could warm up, burn and cause a fire. In other words, it's the amount of current (and hence power) which is drawn that matters. Having many "regular" audio appliances (within reason) won't cause problems, they usually draw in the order of milliAmperes.

Just don't use an US extension wire in Europe as it can be thinner (since the US runs at 110V).

[James Perrett]

Just don't use an US extension wire in Europe as it can be thinner (since the US runs at 110V).

Actually the US one will need to be thicker for a given power as the current will be roughly double. It is the current that dictates the size of the conductor although the insulation could possibly be fractionally thinner for a 110V cable.

[CS70]

You're right, wrote it the other way around!

[ef37a]

One thing to be aware of is to fully unwind drum extensions, even relatively light loads, ~ 500W can cause a heat build up and a melted blob!

Speaking of "extensions" we once won a cracker. The PA job was in a park and the lekky board (that long ago) sent a man to give us a feed in 10mm cable from a junction box in the pavilion about 100mtrs away. We saw the van at the end of the day and the chap came up and said he was dissing his end if we were done. "Yes, fine thanks". Ten later the van departed, cable still in the grass. "Having that! "

Dave.