How To Release A Stuck XLR Connector?

[Jathon Delsy]

Yes folks, the XLR lead is stuck in the back of my Avantone Mixcube. I depress the level and wiggle it and curse and gripe but it's stuck fast. I tried taking it apart but the inside of the connector is fully covered with some sort of black tape/gum stuff and is inaccessible without a radical dismantle that's beyond me.
The odd thing is that I've hardly used this connector, just a few times as I set it up, then it's been left for many years in the same position.
Surely there's a magic way of releasing the broken catch without having to pay for a professional repair?

[Drew Stephenson]

So the obvious thing to check first is that you have tried pushing it back IN properly first to see if that releases the catch?
Next up I would get a fine, flat-head screwdriver and try and use that to release the catch by sliding it carefully between the catch and socket.

[ef37a]

If it has been stuck there for some years some corrosion might have taken place?

Try heating the barrel up with a hair dryer and then squirt in some WD-40. Or, go the other way and freeze the plug with electronic tech's freezer spray.

Dave.

[Murray B]

I've had a similar problem and managed to get the catch to release with an extra hard squeeze on the button provided by a pair of plumbers grips. Can't promise it will work in your case though.

[Dan LB]

Ugh. Been there too many times. And it's never a female flying XLR stuck in a male connector - it's always a male stuck in a female.

The only successful way I've found so far is to expose the back of the chassis XLR housing and depressing the latching mechanism from within.

I fear in your case (seeing as the XLR connector is encased in resin) that snipping the wiring to the chassis XLR and soldering in a new one might be the only option. You'll probably have to extend the existing wiring after trimming it back too (although it will likely be neater to just replace the wiring directly from the PCB - or maybe is it a PCB mounted XLR?) If it is then that potentially makes things slightly easier.

[Marbury]

I have exactly the same problem, but with a brand new cable and brand new monitors (HEDD Type 07 Mk 2) I have tried all day from external and within and to no avail.

HEDD have very kindly sent me a video showing how to release with screwdriver from within but it doesn't work. The trouble is, I don't know if it's the cable at fault or the actual socket (which does have some movement, unlike the other 2 on the back)

[shufflebeat]

If you haven’t done do already- disassemble the plug and move the cable/connectors out of the way, leaving just the metal barrel in place. Much better access.

After that, split chopsticks are your friend.

[Hugh Robjohns]

That will work for Neutrik and the knock-off designs where the insert loads from the rear.... but not for Switchcraft and Cannon types (and their knock-offs) where the insert loads from the front!

[Marbury]

The tab is jammed now and even unscrewing the 2 screws that keep the socket on the cabinet doesn't help. HEDD have said they can easily send me a new plug to fit (and assured me none of this will void the warranty as the dsp boards need replacing which I have agreed to do myself rather than the hastle of sending in the cabinets to the main depot in London) but I can't get the beggar off. I have never know such stress and wasted hours over a simple bit of metal. And yet the removal or the dsp boards was a piece of cake. And even worse, how will I know the new connector plug won't go the same way with this cable ?

[sonics]

I have never know such stress and wasted hours over a simple bit of metal. And yet the removal or the dsp boards was a piece of cake. And even worse, how will I know the new connector plug won't go the same way with this cable ?

I feel your pain! Was it a cheap or unbranded cable? Having had a couple of recent experiences with stuck male XLR plugs (cheap out-of-spec ones bought by non-pros on Amazon; a $20 cable stuck in a $2k camera!) I'm taking a bit more care before I plug a cheap cable into an expensive piece of gear.

I'd suggest Neutrik plugs, and checking the fit before you install the new socket.

[Hugh Robjohns]

I'm glad Marbury is here... he seems to attract all the bad luck that would otherwise afflict the rest of us!

Seriously, though, this kind of thing is incredibly annoying but does highlight the risks of cutting corners with cheap cables.

[Marbury]

Ahem, you all have little faith in me as the cables are high quality Adam Hall and came with the bundle of the pair of monitors from Scan I will have you know. They are professional cables.

I shall look forward to my humble pie to arrive in the post (that is if it doesn't get lost)

https://www.scan.co.uk/products/hedd-ty ... s-and-pads

I think in this instance it was a duff socket.

[sonics]

Well I see that I'm not even allowed to look at your fancy pants cables from where I live!

(Scan blocks the traffic!)

Maybe HEDD are using cheap sockets...?

[shufflebeat]

That will work for Neutrik and the knock-off designs where the insert loads from the rear.... but not for Switchcraft and Cannon types (and their knock-offs) where the insert loads from the front!

Good point, I just assume everyone uses Neutrik because, why wouldn’t you?

[Hugh Robjohns]

...the cables are high quality Adam Hall and came with the bundle of the pair of monitors from Scan I will have you know. They are professional cables.

But are they fitted with Neutrik, Switchcraft or Cannon connectors? The XLRs in your link look like Neutrik clones to me...

I think in this instance it was a duff socket.

Certainly possible. Can you identify the brand?

[Marbury]

...the cables are high quality Adam Hall and came with the bundle of the pair of monitors from Scan I will have you know. They are professional cables.

But are they fitted with Neutrik, Switchcraft or Cannon connectors? The XLRs in your link look like Chinese clones to me...

If you scroll down the page to the cables they state Adam Hall. No brand name on the HEDD sockets I'm afraid. Why would there be ?

[Hugh Robjohns]

If you scroll down the page to the cables they state Adam Hall.

Adam Hall sell assembled cables using components from other suppliers... often low cost Chinese look-alikes in my experience.

No brand name on the HEDD sockets I'm afraid. Why would there be ?

Quality manufacturers usually have an identifying logo — Neutrik always have an N logo embossed on the insert, for example, and in the example below, the full name too.



It sounds like you've been very unlucky that the dimension tolerances of plug and socket were off a bit too far.

[Marbury]

The thing is, when I get my new socket, I can't be certain it won't happen again. I could try it on the cable before I fit it. I will have to see what HEDD say tomorrow. I am sure they wouldn't use inferior components with their reputation.

[Wonks]

The Adam Hall cables in that package are from their 3-star range using Neutrik look-alikes. List price is just over $10 per cable. Their 4-star range use Rean connectors and 5-star use Neutrik connectors.

I’d get cables with better connectors.

[shufflebeat]

Well I see that I'm not even allowed to look at your fancy pants cables from where I live!

(Scan blocks the traffic!)

Security features are no match for my mighty copy and paste function.

They look like genuine NewTricks, should come apart if asked nicely.

The thing is, when I get my new socket, I can't be certain it won't happen again.

Just rip the tab and the locking mechanism out of the socket before you fit it. Loads of devices have non-locking female chassis sockets and the world still turns.

I've recently been doing just this with some old DMX lights, one out of five didn't work out but that was a practice one, like pancakes. I'm sure you're more patient than me.

[Wonks]

They look like genuine NewTricks, should come apart if asked nicely.

They aren’t Neutriks. They are cheaper look-alikes. Cheaper than Rean. See my post above.

It doesn’t mean they aren’t the same dimensions, you’d have to measure them to check. But they aren’t Rean and they aren’t Neutrik, so they could be the problem.

[shufflebeat]

They look like genuine NewTricks, should come apart if asked nicely.

They aren’t Neutriks. They are cheaper look-alikes.

Apologies, my subtle irony may have been missed, they're obviously not Neutrik. Apparently they are single-use XLRs but can possibly be surgically removed by the processs I described earlier and disposed of humanely.

Worth noting, I suspect it's the chassis sockets that are the main culprits.

[Hugh Robjohns]

They look like genuine NewTricks...

Your subtlety beat me too... but for the benefit of others, they lack the Neutrik name or logo — one or both are always on the real items. Also, the logo on the XLR is clearly not the Neutrik logo.

These are clearly knock-off imitations... the body grooves and cable clamp plastic are also different if compared to the real thing.

I wouldn't be quite so quick to blame the sockets in the speaker as I've witnessed trouble with AH cables in other situations...

[shufflebeat]

They look like genuine NewTricks...

Your subtlety beat me too...

Ok, further apologies. I was referring to some of the merch in the markets round here, trainers by Adisad and Pume, for instance.

For the rest, following with interest.

[Eddy Deegan]

I'm not familiar with Adam Hall cables but it might be worth depressing the release mechanism and while holding it in as firmly as possible apply additional 'get me out of here' leverage using a pair of long-nosed pliers gripped around the body of the plug.

Our fingers are a lot weaker than we think in some cases and this might be one of them. Depress the release tab, clamp the long-nosed pliers and lever outwards using the body of the gear as a fulcrum.

It might not work but you'll multiply the force you can exert by hand and even if there's a slight defect in the release mechanism you might just bully it out with no harm done.

Worth a try I think. If it fails you're in no worse position than you were before.

If that doesn't work, sacrifice the plug. Life's too short & all that. Chomp/hacksaw it off as close to the socket as possible and disassemble the stub with care for the socket and using whatever tools necessary on the premise that the socket is worth more than the cable.

Alternatively, if the geometry allows, use the same pliers to strongly depress the release button and attempt to lever out at the same time.

Merely my thoughts of course, but it's what I'd do in the same situation.