Horn replacement for Yamaha S115v

[manleyelop]

Here's a video showing a JBL diaphragm being changed.

Yours will not be that different.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tfh-OvJ1o-Q

Thanks for the link the other main issue i have is knowing what parts exactly to order it's not something im clued up about im keen to learn though if someone is willing to help

[Wonks]

The part numbers are normally on the items, so once you've taken apart one Yamaha S115V, you can note down the numbers and then you've got them for future reference. The same with any other passive speaker.

There really ins't a lot inside a passive PA speaker. Main driver, crossover board, horn + compression driver, input/output terminals and connecting wires.

Often simply googling for the basic part description like "Yamaha S115V replacement compression driver" will give you the part you want (though I much prefer to check on the equipment itself first as not everything on the web is 100% accurate).

[manleyelop]

The part numbers are normally on the items, so once you've taken apart one Yamaha S115V, you can note down the numbers and then you've got them for future reference. The same with any other passive speaker.

There really ins't a lot inside a passive PA speaker. Main driver, crossover board, horn + compression driver, input/output terminals and connecting wires.

Often simply googling for the basic part description like "Yamaha S115V replacement compression driver" will give you the part you want (though I much prefer to check on the equipment itself first as not everything on the web is 100% accurate).

OK thanks so it could be a simple as removing the driver & replace with another

[Wonks]

Pretty much so. A basic multimeter is always useful for testing voice coils to check if they've gone open circuit. Take off the connecting leads (marking which one goes where as you don't want to reverse the polarity when you put them back on), go across the coil connection terminals and check for a resistance close to the rated value (it will normally be very slightly less). If you get an out of range reading, then you can be pretty sure the driver is dead. But if you get a reading - say 6.7 ohms on an 8 ohm driver - then the fault lies elsewhere and changing the drive unit would normally be a waste of time.

You can use the meter to check for continuity on wires.

On a main 12" or 15" driver you can gently push the cone in (from the sides, not the dust cap) and let it pop out again and make sure it isn't rubbing. If it is, sometimes putting the cone in the other way up can cure the problem.

You can look at the back (and the front) of a crossover circuit board and have a visual inspection of the solder joints. A dry joint should show up as looking very different from other good joints, often with a visible crack between the solder and the component, or else a very dull appearance where every other joint is shiny. A quick remelt with a soldering iron and a bit of an appropriate solder (lead or lead-free depending on how old/new it is) and you've probably got a working crossover again. Blown or damaged components often look damaged and have that nasty 'dead component' smell.

[manleyelop]

Pretty much so. A basic multimeter is always useful for testing voice coils to check if they've gone open circuit. Take off the connecting leads (marking which one goes where as you don't want to reverse the polarity when you put them back on), go across the coil connection terminals and check for a resistance close to the rated value (it will normally be very slightly less). If you get an out of range reading, then you can be pretty sure the driver is dead. But if you get a reading - say 6.7 ohms on an 8 ohm driver - then the fault lies elsewhere and changing the drive unit would normally be a waste of time.

You can use the meter to check for continuity on wires.

On a main 12" or 15" driver you can gently push the cone in (from the sides, not the dust cap) and let it pop out again and make sure it isn't rubbing. If it is, sometimes putting the cone in the other way up can cure the problem.

You can look at the back (and the front) of a crossover circuit board and have a visual inspection of the solder joints. A dry joint should show up as looking very different from other good joints, often with a visible crack between the solder and the component, or else a very dull appearance where every other joint is shiny. A quick remelt with a soldering iron and a bit of an appropriate solder (lead or lead-free depending on how old/new it is) and you've probably got a working crossover again. Blown or damaged components often look damaged and have that nasty 'dead component' smell.

Great thanks for the info !
I'll open up the speaker & see what i discover could you send me a link to a good multi meter please

[MarkPAman]

While some people will no doubt be outraged my smallest, cheapest one is one of these: https://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d03123/digital-multimeter-pocket/dp/IN07443?st=Multimeter which should be fine for that job. Now, despite it being rated for 600V, I'll not go poking around at mains with it. However I want to keep my toolbag small & light when I go to gigs so this is handy to have.

For other jobs I use something bigger, with more functions costing and costing quite a lot more!

[manleyelop]

While some people will no doubt be outraged my smallest, cheapest one is one of these: https://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d03123/digital-multimeter-pocket/dp/IN07443?st=Multimeter which should be fine for that job. Now, despite it being rated for 600V, I'll not go poking around at mains with it. However I want to keep my toolbag small & light when I go to gigs so this is handy to have.

For other jobs I use something bigger, with more functions costing and costing quite a lot more!

[manleyelop]

I've taken the horn apart & taken some pics can I post them here? Looks to me like the tweeter is knackered so do I just order a new tweeter? & replace it? If so where can I buy one

[James Perrett]

I've got one of the meters that Mark suggested but I find I use the one at

https://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d03046 ... dp/IN07220

even more as it uses standard batteries that I usually have around. The only problem is that the test leads that it comes with are a bit flimsy and a set of decent leads costs about the same as the meter itself.

I wouldn't use either of these meters on mains but they work amazingly well, given the cost.

If you want to spend a little more there is all you ever wanted to know about budget multimeters (and more) at

https://www.markhennessy.co.uk/budget_m ... /index.htm

[Wonks]

You can't post pictures here directly, you have to host them at somewhere like https://imgur.com/ and then link to the url of the photo (not the page the photo is on) using the 'img' box visible in the post reply header.

[manleyelop]

[manleyelop]

[manleyelop]

[manleyelop]

I've got one of the meters that Mark suggested but I find I use the one at

https://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d03046 ... dp/IN07220

even more as it uses standard batteries that I usually have around. The only problem is that the test leads that it comes with are a bit flimsy and a set of decent leads costs about the same as the meter itself.

I wouldn't use either of these meters on mains but they work amazingly well, given the cost.

If you want to spend a little more there is all you ever wanted to know about budget multimeters (and more) at

https://www.markhennessy.co.uk/budget_m ... /index.htm

[manleyelop]

So is this the correct part below

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Replacement- ... SwmmxW2T2k

[Wonks]

It may work, but note the direct from China address. It won't be a 100% correct part and it will take at least a month to get to you.

A bit of googling shows that eminence make the part for Yamaha and it's an MD-2001-16 that you want.

See here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eminence-Dia ... 0836242354

You can get it here in the UK. Here's one from a reputable supplier:, but with the part number you may find it a bit cheaper elsewhere.

https://www.lean-business.co.uk/eshop/r ... glshf86177

[manleyelop]

It may work, but note the direct from China address. It won't be a 100% correct part and it will take at least a month to get to you.

A bit of googling shows that eminence make the part for Yamaha and it's an MD-2001-16 that you want.

See here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eminence-Dia ... 0836242354

You can get it here in the UK. Here's one from a reputable supplier:, but with the part number you may find it a bit cheaper elsewhere.

https://www.lean-business.co.uk/eshop/r ... glshf86177

Thanks for the links i didn't notice the china address but wow they ain't cheap in the UK bad news if they keep blowing for me at that price!
so the one in the 2nd link is the one i need? with it not having a clear description i wouldn't have had a clue it was the correct part to be honest with no mention of the speaker

[manleyelop]

If used as a limiter, with a threshold set so that the speakers can go loud but not over loud, then it should certainly help a lot. Don't add any make-up gain! But if there is a source of high or ultrasonic noise/distortion somewhere in the system, then there could still be a lot of HF energy getting through, more than the tweeter can cope with, then you may have to lower the limiter level even more. It's very unlikely, but it is theoretically possible.

where do you reckon i should set the peak stop limiter level on the DBX 116XS

PEAKSTOP LEVEL Control and LED
This control allows you to set the maximum peak output level of the 166xs regardless of any
other control. PeakStop comes after the compression, gating and output gain circuitry; this
provides for an absolute limit to be put on the peak excursions at the output. PeakStop works
instantaneously; you can apply moderate amounts of dbx’s OverEasy compression and still be
protected from large transients, other short-term overloads and overmodulation.
PeakStop is a smooth well-controlled soft clipper whose behavior is sonically similar to the
gentleness of OverEasy compression; its clipping is much preferable to a power amp’s or
analog-to-digital converter’s. PeakStop rounds the corners of a peak rather than cutting it off
sharply. By making a signal’s leading and trailing edges curved instead of sharply angled, it
reduces the amount of higher odd-order, offensive-sounding harmonics that conventional hard
clipping causes.
The level at which PEAKSTOP is activated is adjustable from +0dBu to +20dBu. Note that small
signal excursions above the set value of PEAKSTOP are possible, to allow the rounding to
occur. Therefore, for applications where you must not exceed a given ceiling, set the
PEAKSTOP control 1dB to 2dB below the ceiling.
The PEAKSTOP LED illuminates whenever peaks attempt to exceed PeakStop level and are
reduced in amplitude. If the PeakStop LED illuminates when the PEAKSTOP LEVEL control is set
to +20dBu, the headroom capabilities of the 166xs are being exceeded and hard clipping is
occurring.

[James Perrett]

For a rehearsal room I'd be tempted to keep a stock of the cheap ones (but try one first to make sure that it is right). If you were always in control of the PA it would make sense to buy the best quality but it sounds like these are going to be almost disposable.

I'm also a little wary of using a compressor in the system - you may find that bands miss the extra oomph from the loud peaks so they just wind up the input level and get more frustrated when the PA doesn't seem to be going any louder. Meanwhile, the average power going into the speakers goes up and you're more likely to damage the LF driver as well. Having run a rehearsal studio in the past I've seen the mess that people can get into when they can't get the PA to do what they want.

The limiter would be fine to catch the odd peak but you really need different thresholds at high frequencies and low frequencies in order to match the speaker characteristics if you want it to really protect the speakers. Active speakers usually incorporate separate limiters for each driver (but even those are not always foolproof).

One thing I haven't seen any mention of (though I've not trawled back through previous threads) is the amplifier that you are using. Is it being driven into clipping too much?

[manleyelop]

One thing I haven't seen any mention of (though I've not trawled back through previous threads) is the amplifier that you are using. Is it being driven into clipping too much?

i don't know to be honest but up to now ive had no power amp issues ive been advised it's well matched for the speakers yamaha p7000 .ive had 3yrs with zero problems up to now then >BOOM> but them i can get much busier these days maybe the gear is getting more hammer than before im really un happy about the situation im in if a speaker blows it costs me £50

if i hear pa getting out of hand here i always show my face & sort it when ever possible some bands & the things they do blow my mind

[Sam Spoons]

Start charging a £50 speaker/PA damage deposit. If they blow it up they pay.......

Or, if business is that good just up the price by a pound an hour and that'll cover a blown tweeter every week.

Wonks, looking at the pic of the crossover there looks to be a polyfuse on the board next to the red electrolytic. And the spec does mention speaker protection.

[Wonks]

It may be. Difficult to know for sure without a circuit diagram and I couldn't find one for the crossover. Wasn't sure if that was just a smaller disc capacitor.

But £45 for a proper diaphragm replacement on a speaker that's performed well for years isn't too bad. The old one was obviously used a lot so failure was probably down to wear and tear/component fatigue.

[Wonks]

The last rehearsal studio I used had covers over the mixer so that you couldn't alter the input gains, only the channel levels. There may have been something stopping the output faders being raised too far as well. Give them a decent volume level for vocals and let them manage their own equipment volume to work with it.

[Sam Spoons]

It may be. Difficult to know for sure without a circuit diagram and I couldn't find one for the crossover. Wasn't sure if that was just a smaller disc capacitor.

But £45 for a proper diaphragm replacement on a speaker that's performed well for years isn't too bad. The old one was obviously used a lot so failure was probably down to wear and tear/component fatigue.

Agreed, good service TBH.

The other pic I found shows that component labelled CL1 the resistor is labelled R* but I can't see the other caps to see how they are labelled. The literature says :-

Built-in Protection

As a much-requested solution to the problem of tweeter destruction that is a regrettably common occurrence in the equipment and studio rental business, the Concert Club series is provided with a protection circuit that prevents excessive tweeter input due to acoustic feedback or other causes.

and pictures the same crossover alongside.



https://asia-latinamerica-mea.yamaha.com/en/products/proaudio/speakers/concert_club_v_series/features.html#product-tabs

[manleyelop]

You can get it here in the UK. Here's one from a reputable supplier:, but with the part number you may find it a bit cheaper elsewhere.

https://www.lean-business.co.uk/eshop/r ... glshf86177

shame i can't find one any cheaper online