Turn on speakers from external switch

[wearashirt]

Does anyone have a more elegant way of remotely powering on and off their monitor speakers?

I have a pair of yamaha HS5s that have really nice, tough power buttons on its back. I want to minimize turning them on and off each day, so I decided to plug them into an extension power cord that has switches. My plan is to turn them on and off from that switch. This way, I can just keep the yamaha hs5's power-ON instead of bending over my desk and reaching back for the speakers every time I need to do so. I just use a switch underneath my desk.

However, turning the speakers on and off from the nearby switch causes the speakers to pop somewhat loudly, although tolerable. But it's worrisome, still.

So I want to know if anyone is able to do this successfully and safely on their speakers.

[resistorman]

My speakers interfaces and mixers are all civilized and ramp-up without issues even if all switched on at once, but the standard switch on order is always good advice:

Instruments and pedals/ effects units

Mixers/ interface

Computer (if used)

Amplifier/ speakers.

Inverse for off.

[ef37a]

(Sigh) I have posted this many times in many places!

Get a wireless mains switch. They can be had in bubble packs of two upwards.
I have one switching my 40" TV and the Tannoy actives which flank it. I also have another that controls lights in my bedroom so I can turn them off without going A over T getting into bed.

Mains socket switches are 'slow' (they even weld up sometimes) and I would guess this is causing the bangs. Wireless switches use a relay which snaps smartly on and off. However, always turn the monitors on LAST after the rest of the gear has settled. Off first.

Dave.

[Hugh Robjohns]

^wot Dave says.

[Folderol]

Mains socket switches are 'slow' (they even weld up sometimes) and I would guess this is causing the bangs. Wireless switches use a relay which snaps smartly on and off. However, always turn the monitors on LAST after the rest of the gear has settled. Off first.

Dave.

Not only are they slow, but when the design was formulated they were never intended to be used as On/Off switches. The idea was to isolate the live before unplugging, after equipment was switched off internally. Bear in mind at that time the live pin didn't have the insulating sleeve part way down its length.

[Drew Stephenson]

Mains socket switches are 'slow' (they even weld up sometimes) and I would guess this is causing the bangs. Wireless switches use a relay which snaps smartly on and off. However, always turn the monitors on LAST after the rest of the gear has settled. Off first.

Dave.

Not only are they slow, but when the design was formulated they were never intended to be used as On/Off switches. The idea was to isolate the live before unplugging, after equipment was switched off internally. Bear in mind at that time the live pin didn't have the insulating sleeve part way down its length.

I used to leave my monitors on and switch the strip off at the wall but having read the enlightening comments from these two above ^^ I shifted back to just having a slightly awkward reach to turn them off individually.
I think this has possibly added as much as two seconds to my set up time.

[ManFromGlass]

I dodged that bullet by buying monitors with switches on the front.
I have a second pair in another room that is a bit of a yoga move to turn them on - the switch is on the back near the bottom of the sub. The sub is in a tight spot to reach in to.
Last on, usually first off and always with the master volume on the mixer at zero.

[James Perrett]

I have an Olson switchable power strip which powers up my home setup from a single switch. The main amplifier has an internal delay before it connects the speakers so there are no switch on thumps. The illuminated rocker switch used appears to have fast switching contacts with at least 3mm of clearance when switched off so I would assume that it is intended to switch high currents.

In the studio I need to switch the monitors on after I switch the mixing desk on in order to avoid large thumps and I must confess that I just use the switch on the wall socket for this. I've never experienced any issues but I can understand Dave and Will's warnings.

The noises that the OP experiences could be down to arcing in the switch. The monitors' own switches may have a suppression capacitor in the switch circuit to prevent this.

[Dan LB]

These Canford sequential on/off power distros are the dog’s wotsits but they’re expensive.

https://www.canford.co.uk/CANFORD-MDU-A ... OFF-models

[Folderol]

These Canford sequential on/off power distros are the dog’s wotsits but they’re expensive.

https://www.canford.co.uk/CANFORD-MDU-A ... OFF-models

Seeing those prices, I'm even more pleased with my home-brewed one

[Lizardpoint]

Get yourself a Furman power sequencer.
Plug all your gear into the delay 1 & 2 output connectors and your power amps into the delay 3 output connectors.
Then when you power on, all your toys come on first, finally your monitors.
When you power off, your monitors go off first then the rest of your toys.
It works for me
Cheers
Dave

[shufflebeat]

Get a wireless mains switch. They can be had in bubble packs of two upwards.

Do you mean something as cheap and basic as this?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/HBN-Programmab ... 6X7Z&psc=1

...or something more elaborate?

[ef37a]

Get a wireless mains switch. They can be had in bubble packs of two upwards.

Do you mean something as cheap and basic as this?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/HBN-Programmab ... 6X7Z&psc=1

...or something more elaborate?

That's the very chap. Not a name I know but they look very similar to a set I have. You might be worried about their low cost? Don't be, my bedroom set have been going faultlessly for a good three years and the ones on the Tannoys over a year. I will mention one oddity, about 2 months ago the TV and monitors powered down. I found the remote and they came back without problem. Not done it since. However, the switches are 'fail safe' in that if the mains browns out sufficiently the relay drops out and they do not reset.

The switches are rated at 10A so 2,300 watts. Personally I would not exceed 5 or 6 amps. You can have two controlled by the same button and so share the loads. Some models have an 'all call' button that operated all switches in the system.

Dave.

[Drew Stephenson]

I did try a set of those, generic ones from Amazon, and all three units stopped working within 2 years.
Unfortunately I can't remember the specific brand that mine were and they've long since gone to the tip.

[Hugh Robjohns]

I've had good experience with Energenie remote switched sockets, eg.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Energenie-Remo ... B004A7XGH8

[ef37a]

I've had good experience with Energenie remote switched sockets, eg.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Energenie-Remo ... B004A7XGH8

Those switches and remote are identical to a set I have branded 'STATUS'.

Even if they do fail after few years a pair at around £12-£15 a pop is hardly a strain on the ole card!

Dave.

[Folderol]

from Amazon

I suspect that was the the problem

[Exalted Wombat]

We seem to have decided this is about arcing switch contacts rather than the more usual 'switch-on thump'.

Easy to check. Power up by simply pushing the mains plug into a live wall socket. Do it fast, do it slow. Different sort of bump each time?

[Folderol]

Absolutely DON'T do that

[ef37a]

I have actually found an Energenie plug I had forgotten I had (do that a lot now)
It does indeed talk to the STATUS remote I have.

The Energenie switches do seem a cut above? It is rated at 13A/3kW NOT that I shall ever use for more than 1kW top whack.

Dave.

[shufflebeat]

With it being a relay, would a regular RCD serve the same purpose - apart from the remote access?

[ef37a]

With it being a relay, would a regular RCD serve the same purpose - apart from the remote access?

Well, you CAN trip an RCD remotely but it would be naughty to tell the world how!

Dave.

[Wonks]

There are different format RCDs. I was thinking this would be more along the DIN-rail mounted types and do have an on/off switch, rather than the in-line plug type. I wouldn't recommend the latter for regular switching on and off.

e.g. https://www.wentvaleelectricalltd.co.uk ... 7877-p.asp

[Forum Admin]

Get yourself a Furman power sequencer.
Plug all your gear into the delay 1 & 2 output connectors and your power amps into the delay 3 output connectors.
Then when you power on, all your toys come on first, finally your monitors.
When you power off, your monitors go off first then the rest of your toys.
It works for me
Cheers
Dave

I do likewise with my core gear, except I use a Studiospares Trojan 348010 AC Power Sequencer which offers six 13A rear sockets. Not sure if they still make/sell these?

[Hugh Robjohns]

Don't think that's available any more. Studiospares do sell the Furman power sequencer, though for about £500... except it's currently on back order.

https://www.studiospares.com/cables-lea ... 470800.htm