Coloured heat shrink big enough for XLR plugs

[MarkOne]

I’d like to colour code my XLRs so I can dive in the bag and get out the right lengths. I really don’t want to unsolder them all to slip it on to the cable, anyone know if you can get coloured heat shrink big enough to slide on the barrel of an XLR?

[Pippacairn]

This may be suitable from CPC;
order code CB20365
Concordia 2:1 Heatshrink Kit, Multicoloured, 25.4mm x 250mm (Pack of 12) - AHSP25.4

[Sam Spoons]

An XLR barrel is 19mm and often the collar is bigger, most HS tubing has a shrink ratio of 3:1 but it is available with a 4:1 shrink ratio (but that's the most I've found with a quick google). I'd say if you are using 6mm cable then it would probably just work with 24mm HS but I doubt you'd get 20mm cable over most XLRs if your cable is 5mm or smaller.

I just use a couple of small coloured zip ties around each end of the cable close to the connector, in my case for identification rather than length but I might incorporate a length code if I ever get around to redoing them.

[ef37a]

https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/adhesives-a ... jkEALw_wcB

I have used a similar product years ago and it bonds to itself and never oozes or goes sticky. I dare say they do other colours?

Dave.

[DGL.]

I know the Neutrik XLR's don't need desoldering to fit their coding rings as they fit between the metal shell and the plastic "boot".

[Rene Asologuitar]

This may be suitable from CPC;
order code CB20365
Concordia 2:1 Heatshrink Kit, Multicoloured, 25.4mm x 250mm (Pack of 12) - AHSP25.4

This is good.

[Sam Spoons]

This may be suitable from CPC;
order code CB20365
Concordia 2:1 Heatshrink Kit, Multicoloured, 25.4mm x 250mm (Pack of 12) - AHSP25.4

This is good.

That will only shrink down to ½" min so if you want it on the cable it won't work. If you intend to shrink it on the connector it'll be fine. It's nice and cheap though.

[Pippacairn]

This may be suitable from CPC;
order code CB20365
Concordia 2:1 Heatshrink Kit, Multicoloured, 25.4mm x 250mm (Pack of 12) - AHSP25.4

This is good.

That will only shrink down to ½" min so if you want it on the cable it won't work. If you intend to shrink it on the connector it'll be fine. It's nice and cheap though.

MarkOne requested heat shrink to “go on the barrel” of an XLR not over, a play on words perhaps!

[Sam Spoons]

He did indeed , I was just covering the bases as he had also talked about unsoldering and sliding the HS onto the cable.

[MarkOne]

Actually, I didn't know those Neutrik coding rings were even a thing!, let a lone they could be retrofitted just by unscrewing the barrel!

Think that will be a perfect solution!

[ef37a]

Actually, I didn't know those Neutrik coding rings were even a thing!, let a lone they could be retrofitted just by unscrewing the barrel!

Think that will be a perfect solution!

I would still put a unique colour combination on the XLRs. Stops the TV Co crews "forgetting" they are not theirs!

Dave.

[forumuser840717]

Actually, I didn't know those Neutrik coding rings were even a thing!, let a lone they could be retrofitted just by unscrewing the barrel!

Think that will be a perfect solution!

I would still put a unique colour combination on the XLRs. Stops the TV Co crews "forgetting" they are not theirs!

Making one's cable distinctive in some way is always a good idea when working with others - though I wouldn't go to the extent I saw in some pictures where someone chose lime green coloured mic cables for on-stage use!

I always find that negotiations with TV production companies over the whereabouts of missing cables go much more smoothly if one manages to "accidentally" de-rig a couple of their triax/fibre runs while they're distracted "accidentally" de-rigging not their mic cables! Failing that, a camera, lens or tripod accidentally getting put in the wrong place always seems to work.

The Neutrik coloured marker rings are a handy invention if you need to retrofit some kind of marking. They do a version for their jack plugs too.

Oh, and another option for ownership marking, when you have metal bodies on your connectors, is to get them engraved or laser etched with some kind of ID marks. It's more expensive than the plastic marker rings but looks smart, is completely permanent (unless someone swaps the connector bodies out) and can also be done after the connectors are soldered - either by doing them in place or by removing the connector bodies and sending them off.