Interface failed, need a new one, any recommendations?

[Arpangel]

My Behringer 1820 suddenly went down yesterday, not good, seeing as it’s only three years old.
It made a strange "crackling" noise there was a burning smell, I’m not even going to bother to open it up.
This is a good time to get something else, I’ve thought about a couple of things, I need 8 I/O.
The Motu, and Focusrite Scarlett, or Clarett, not sure it’ll be worth me spending that much on the Clarett, I know it’s a good sounding unit, but may be a bit OTT for me now, given my hearing these days.
Can’t think of anything else, maybe people can throw in a few ideas, and one thing I do need is a front panel "Mix" knob like the Behringer has.

[Kwackman]

Audient EVO16?

[Arpangel]

Audient EVO16?

Thanks, that looks perfect, price-wise.
Just need to check it’ll work with my Mac running High Sierra.
Is it rack mountable? I need that really.

[Stig Ø]

Seems you can get rack ears for it. Doesn’t seem to be included, though.

[Arpangel]

Seems you can get rack ears for it. Doesn’t seem to be included, though.

Thanks, it looks good, I’m setting a budget for this, around £500, give or take, so it’s going on the shortlist.

[ef37a]

Audient EVO16?

Thanks, that looks perfect, price-wise.
Just need to check it’ll work with my Mac running High Sierra.
Is it rack mountable? I need that really.

The EVO does not have any DIN MIDI ports if that matters Tony? As you were a fan of Behringer (no more mayhap?) how about a smaller interface with ADAT and an ADA8200? The latter could be upgraded later?

Then there is the Tascam 16/08 and after their disaster with the US2000 they now DO fit DINs! Rack mountable to boot.

I would LOVE to suggest a MOTU but the biggies ARE expensive.

Dave.

[Arpangel]

Audient EVO16?

Thanks, that looks perfect, price-wise.
Just need to check it’ll work with my Mac running High Sierra.
Is it rack mountable? I need that really.

The EVO does not have any DIN MIDI ports if that matters Tony? As you were a fan of Behringer (no more mayhap?) how about a smaller interface with ADAT and an ADA8200? The latter could be upgraded later?

Then there is the Tascam 16/08 and after their disaster with the US2000 they now DO fit DINs! Rack mountable to boot.

I would LOVE to suggest a MOTU but the biggies ARE expensive.

Dave.

Thanks Dave, that’s a good idea about ADAT, I’ve got a smaller Berry, I’ll see if it works with that.
I’ve just looked at the Motu 8 Pre, that’s around £500/600 quid, that could be an option, oh yes, I must have DIN Midi, so the Evo is off the list.

[ef37a]

Thought you might miss those Mr T!
I cannot understand AI peeps leaving these ports off? Even very cheap AIs and other devices have them so they must cost nanties to implement?

There is some excuse for very wee devices but we now see MIDI on 3.5mm TRS (Ugh!) and there is always the 'D' breakout cable. Messy I know but it gets the job done.

Dave.

[Drew Stephenson]

I've got a 16x08 and so far it's been a very reliable and useable bit of kit. Bear in mind the first 8 channels are mic only though, no combo sockets. You've still got 8 line (or 6 line and two hi-z) inputs.

[ef37a]

I've got a 16x08 and so far it's been a very reliable and useable bit of kit. Bear in mind the first 8 channels are mic only though, no combo sockets. You've still got 8 line (or 6 line and two hi-z) inputs.

Never had one Drew but they have been around a long time so any bugs should have been well shaken out by now? The fact that we now hear little about them is good news I think.

Dave.

[Drew Stephenson]

I've got a 16x08 and so far it's been a very reliable and useable bit of kit. Bear in mind the first 8 channels are mic only though, no combo sockets. You've still got 8 line (or 6 line and two hi-z) inputs.

Never had one Drew but they have been around a long time so any bugs should have been well shaken out by now? The fact that we now hear little about them is good news I think.

Dave.

The only other caveat I'd add is that it doesn't seem to play nicely with Zoom (as in the provider of remote meetings, not the audio hardware company).
Aside from that I'm a happy owner.

[Moroccomoose]

You can pick up a profire 2626 on ebay for less than £150. Plus another £20 for a firewire card and Bob's yer Auntie's live-in lover!
Admittedly firewire is a bit old hat, but my profire is more stable in win 11 than it ever has been.
That said, I have already decided that when the time comes, the EVO16 looks like the ideal replacement. Will definitely be going for a USB3 option. I'm less concerned about midi as most midi stuff is already USB, or it is easy enough to get a USB midi interface. I guess the new limit becomes how many USB ports will I need?!

[MarkOne]

You can pick up a profire 2626 on ebay for less than £150. Plus another £20 for a firewire card and Bob's yer Auntie's live-in lover!
Admittedly firewire is a bit old hat, but my profire is more stable in win 11 than it ever has been.
That said, I have already decided that when the time comes, the EVO16 looks like the ideal replacement. Will definitely be going for a USB3 option. I'm less concerned about midi as most midi stuff is already USB, or it is easy enough to get a USB midi interface. I guess the new limit becomes how many USB ports will I need?!

Not sure, but I think Tony is on a Mac right now, and getting any firewire working is a sure way to blow a mental fuse. And even in PC land, not all Firewire cards are equal, and depending on the chipset you might end up extremely unlucky with that cheapo interface card (Do people even buy computers with replaceable cards like that any more?)

[OneWorld]

Of course the biggest restraint is budget. It seems that you are reluctant to spend a dis-proportionate amount because of your hearing. If you are happy to stay with a firewire option I would certainly consider a used RME FF800, they are getting cheaper and cheaper. Or how about the Focusrite Liquid 56, I had one of these before I went over to RME (simply because the RME is only 1U rack space) but the Focusrite I had was certainly the equal of the RME, a really reliable solid old bus of a thing that was sonically equivalent to me RME as well. I have seen them advertised as little as £100, I think I did well getting £200 for mine when I sold it several months ago.

However, Focusrite aren't supporting it any more so it might well come to the point that the driver might not work on newer OS's - mine worked fine on all issues of Win10/64

I too had a Profire 2626 way back when and I seem to remember it worked fine, and yes they are cheap as chips (mind you have you been to the chippy lately!!!!, costs an arm and a leg) I have seen the Profire as cheap as £75

[James Perrett]

oh yes, I must have DIN Midi, so the Evo is off the list.

You could always use a separate Midi interface. They seem to last longer than audio interfaces (apart from maybe RME).

I'd strongly advise against a Firewire interface (remember this is Tony asking folks). Even if you get it going now, you are probably living on borrowed time with it and something will stop it working in the fairly near future.

[ef37a]

You could always use a separate Midi interface. They seem to last longer than audio interfaces (apart from maybe RME).

Evidence James? I have had USB interfaces starting with an M-A Fast track Pro on XP through a Tascam US 122, a Focusrite 8i6 (still have) Behringer BCA 2000. (that did break, two samples 3 times but that was because they were ****!) and Alesis, wee thing with MIDI can't recall the model. An NI KA6 still have, works fine, and finally the M4. All those interfaces kept working apart from the BCA2K (and I am sure I could have fixed that if Behs weren't such ***ts about spares!)

The 'lesser' interfaces were either donated or sent to son and AFAIK still work.

Oh yes, totally agree, avoid FWire. It was enough of a PITA in its heyday, don't want to go there again!

Dave.

[James Perrett]

Evidence James?

Mainly from the number of faulty interface posts we get on here. Most of the issues that I've seen personally have been more down to obsolescence. I've got a redundant Turtle Beach Multisound which needs an ISA slot and the Firewire part of my Focusrite seems to have stopped working so I just use it as a preamp/ADC now. A friend that I help out with computer gear had to buy a new interface because his old one wouldn't work with anything newer than XP.

OK so the MQX32M Midi interface is obsolete for the same reason as the Multisound but the MOTU Fastlane keeps going on Win 10. However I've not tried the Midiman interface on Win 10 yet.

Personally, I find that my current audio interfaces need to be more portable than the Midi interface so it makes sense to leave the Midi interface behind and still connected up when I take the recording rig out on location. So separate audio and Midi interfaces work better for me.

[sonics]

PreSonus Studio 1824c or Tascam US-16x08. Both excellent interfaces. You can adjust the former from an iPad, too.

[Arpangel]

PreSonus Studio 1824c or Tascam US-16x08. Both excellent interfaces. You can adjust the former from an iPad, too.

I was looking at that Tascam, good price, but after thinking more, helped by a few large G&T's, that Focusrite Clarett 8 Pre is tempting, and life is too short to to mess around.

[sonics]

Stop messing about with the G&Ts and order a large Clarett, then. It's one of my favourites - mature yet affordable, and an excellent vintage!

[BWC]

Evidence James?

Mainly from the number of faulty interface posts we get on here.

Taking into account the much greater number of people (often with little understanding) that buy audio vs. MIDI interfaces? I can see how the former might be more susceptible to obsolescence though.

[ef37a]

Evidence James?

Mainly from the number of faulty interface posts we get on here.

Taking into account the much greater number of people (often with little understanding) that buy audio vs. MIDI interfaces? I can see how the former might be more susceptible to obsolescence though.

As a long time lurker on the forum I would say the incidence of AI failures reported was incredibly low? Especially since almost everyone here uses at least one! Even then, some of the "faults" turn out to be 'finger trouble' and kind suggestion to "RTFM" often sorts the poster out!

It also seems to me that James was really referring to AIs that were 'orphaned' by OS changes? That is more a question of 'politics' than of reliability.

I don't know but I suspect MIDI only interfaces use a 'generic USB MIDI' driver and that does not change with OS upgrades?

But my main beef with AI manufacturers of some quite costly interfaces is the 'bean counter' attitude plus the fact that MIDI capability has been a feature of AIs right back to Sound Blaster days.

Dave.

[Arpangel]

Just discovered a fault in the PSU of my 1820, where the lead goes into the in -line "lump" it’s shorted out, the wires are stripped at that point, I tried another PSU, correct voltage but not the right amperage, and the 1820 works, this is really bad, it must have been like this since new, as it’s just been sitting I my rack, that would explain the burning smell.
Trouble is, I can’t seem to find the correct replacement PSU, it needs to be 12v 2000ma centre negative, I’ve found a My Volts PSU it’s described as being for an 1820, but it’s centre positive, is this important? and can I use a generic PSU?

[Wonks]

You definitely need a centre negative PSU. Centre positive won’t work and could damage components if they haven’t fitted reverse polarity protection.

The spec sheet says 20W max. power consumption, so at 12v that’s 1.66A/1666mA. So you’ll need a PSU that can supply at least 1700mA, but it can have a bigger capacity. Yes, it can be generic.

e.g. https://amzn.eu/d/j82zsaJ

[Arpangel]

You definitely need a centre negative PSU. Centre positive won’t work and could damage components if they haven’t fitted reverse polarity protection.

The spec sheet says 20W max. power consumption, so at 12v that’s 1.66A/1666mA. So you’ll need a PSU that can supply at least 1700mA, but it can have a bigger capacity. Yes, it can be generic.

Thanks Wonks, I’m going to Cricklewood electronics later, hopefully they’ll have one.

[ef37a]

Tony, are you ABSOLUTELY sure that B'ringer is centre negative?

That odd polarity is almost exclusive to guitar pedal supplies for variously contested reasons. Bloody silly of Behringers to do that if so.

As Wonks says, provided the supply can deliver around 2 amps at 12V most will be fine but I would suggest buying from a reputable source such as RS Comps or CPC/Farnell and not some 'no name' tat online.

I am sure CPC will do a properly rated supply and one with a 'universal' set of connectors so you can get the (VITAL!) polarity right. PLEASE tell me you own a digital test meter?

Dave.

[Wonks]

It is centre negative, or at least the graphic by the power connector on the interface says it is.

[Arpangel]

It is centre negative, or at least the graphic by the power connector on the interface says it is.

Absolutely. I had to change the polarity to negative on the PSU I tested it with.

[ef37a]

It is centre negative, or at least the graphic by the power connector on the interface says it is.

Yes indeed. I have managed to find a rear view with just good enough resolution to confirm.
THAT is bloody daft and an accident waiting to happen. I have and have had dozens of rat powered bits of kit and none have been centre negative except guitar electronics.

Dave.

[Arpangel]

PLEASE tell me you own a digital test meter?

Dave.

Yes! I do! as for knowing how to use it, that’s a different kettle of doo-daa!
I got a huge belt off that PSU, thought I was going to die! I couldn’t let go of it, I think I touched a charged capacitor, that’s the biggest electrical shock I’ve ever had, and they were tiny capacitors.
WARNING!